Bemused Simplicity

Portraiture: A study of from painting to pixels

2008-12-17T12:17:00.000-08:00

We know we all like taking pictures of ourselves and friends everywhere we go. Sometimes we don't even know who they are, only that something about them intrigues us. But where did this self obsession and condoned voyeurism begin? Let's pick it apart and go back to the root of the individual- the portrait. What origins did it come from and what was the purpose of it exactly? Why do people still get portraiture done when there is such thing as modern technology? I mean, have they just not yet discovered the pore spot-on SLR? I think those who ask these questions will benefit from reading on, learning about the definitions, a brief history, and some of today's top portraitists who rule the fashion media domain. Namely the best, David Downton.

Definitions

A portrait has multiple meaning to different people, but a description from some of the master artists like to call a portrait, not only replicating what's in front of you, but allowing the expression of the character to exude through. The expression is not anything temporary or fleeting, but show trueness and quality. Whereas animation is all about exaggerating, portraiture is about subtlety. You are not distracted by an action of what the patron is doing or is going to do, rather the artist is more interested in telling the story of who he is getting to know. The long sittings can testify to this idea of catching the attitude and spirit of a person, opposite of a fleeting thought or snapshot. The idea is to focus on the face and its expressions to display the likeness, personality and mood of a person. Through the years, some things have evolved or re-emerged, but let's first take a look at who made these rules.

Timeline

History tells us that dead kings from Egypt, or mummies, were the first ones to have their images replicated in sculpture to convey eternal authority. They carried the tradition of Royal Egyptian portraiture through the 5th Century B.C. until the Greeks started catching on with their own replicated images of youth and the ideal. But it was the Romans that won the rendering award for immaculately replicated faces, still owed to making death masks for their ancestors. During Colonial times in America, portraits were record from self-taught painters, as status markers for the rising mercantile class. By the 20th Century, however, the skill was induced from studying abroad, inspired by the masters in Europe, but leaving the aristocracy behind. Instead, Americans now decided they would have their paintings if it meant a proud accomplishment of the individual.

Famous paintings of this time are George Washington and Rebrandt's painting of his brother, Rubens. 'Miniatures', a few inches was a keepsake accessory for long-distance relationships of any kind.

As photography became more accessible by the mid 19th century, the need for portraiture diminished as one can imagine, nevertheless it still amused the wealthy, and exemplifies the romantic mood of the affluent at the time. Joh n Singer Sargeant, as any good artist does, adds depth to his work by capturing the quality of those fleeting moments former mentioned. At the turn of the century, artists such as Thomas Eakens flipped the coin back to realism, but not soon after came abstraction artists, Andy Warhol, was popular for celebrity and 'it' girl expositions. Others were Roy Lichtenstein, Of today's artists, Chuck Close if by far one of the most experimental artists that dig deep into the portraiture, examining both the meaning and its purpose. In 1876, Realism marked another flagship for portraits.

The depiction of the inanimate object, or still-life become widely popular around Europe. Traditionally, still-life objects chosen to be placed in the portrait was iconographic for their knowledge or interest, ie: a sister with a book, and a brother with jacks & marbles. The evolution of artists mixed techniques of realism and abstraction. O'Keefe did this of the natural world using plants and flowers quite often. With technical advances in the rendering of print, engravings were superimposed to mix the old with the new. As shown, there are many different kinds of types portraits that can be defined, but the essence of a person must be captured. Fashion Illustrators need to balance the

finesse of bringing life and character into the face and form.

Fashion Illustration

Among fashion illustrators from the Eighties up to now, there are only a handful that have the element. The elements I speak of is not a formula from the Egyptians, Grecco-Romans, or the impressionists. The elements of today are precisely what the artists had in theirs- raw talent with a personal knack for unique. They made connecting and communicating with

the viewer seem so natural that it's almost expected that the norm or elite will follow. Every time someone comes across a David Downton photo, attributed to Erin O'Conner or other muse', they are bound to have the same reaction. It's simply a reflex of an appreciation for beauty and style, shown in the kind of rare painstaking perfection that only shows impulse perfection. Downton's rendering of Erin O'Conner's high contrasts and accented profiles up-play the unattainability factor and reiterating age-old views of trying to capture the ideal from the reality of average.

And here's my attempt to render who I think is one of the greatest models of all times, Christy Turlington in the style of David Downton.

Noe Valley

2008-11-24T02:14:00.000-08:00

Noe Valley. Just when you thought you’ve seen all of San Francisco’s hidden spots, waves Noe Valley. Among the Victorian homes, gift and flower shops we stumble across 24th St. The main shopping strip in Noe Valley, sandwiched between the Mission and Castro. Though the most trendy fashion in this town were pregnant women or new moms, there are a few boutiques that offer just enough to satisfy the neighbors.

Hayes Valley

2008-11-24T02:06:00.001-08:00

Hayes Valley. Hayes’ for horses, and hipsters. The plaid still found on grungy urbanites trickle the style to a quaint, chicer boutique strip, Hayes Valley. Some of the pedestrians on this strip seemed oblivious to their natural ‘hipness’, since the neighborhood calls for it in itself. We went into a store called Azalea to take a look first hand. One of the male sales associates was dragged out from behind his dj scratch turntable to pose nonchalantly for the camera. From illustrative splashed tee’s similar to one shown by Julie Huas, to minimalist knuckle rings, these street setters knew exactly where to keep up their non-trendy trend.

The Fillmore

2008-11-24T01:26:00.000-08:00

One of most distinctive human brand made his stamp on local San Franciscans on this street where his flagship resides on Fillmore and Sacramento St. Marc Jacobs, who recently signed a deal with Mitsubishi to increase his presence in Japan, is still the main pick for trendsetters on Fillmore St. Also among top choices were vintage and mix & matchwear, allowing the young 20’s-30’s shoppers the freedom to style H&M with Gucci as they sipped on their latte’s and went for the weekend meandering.

Few resembled Spring 2009 rtw, although, not sure if anyone really was motivated by the runway. Nonetheless, there were some resemblances for example of L’Wren Scott’s cropped leather jackets and a young woman who decided to pair the looser version of it up with a cobalt, houndstooth print scarf, resembling more ____. Still the preferred the safe and casual look, say it if you will, a reasonable response to this season’s recession sporting mostly blacks, grays, and neutrals. Some designers’ collections that showed this look are: Helmut Lang, with his city cool and surprising constructions. Also, House of Cassette connected the hipster loose shirt dresses dueled with tights.

Robyn Lays Some Megs

2008-11-12T09:45:00.000-08:00

Robin Miriam Carlson, better known as Robyn has made a recent comeback with hits off her “Konichiwa Bitches” album with hits like “Handle Me,” and “With Every Heartbeat” that brings us jamming to eclectic “Nuclear-powered pop’. But the stardom of Robyn started back in the late 90’s with hits widely known, “Show me Love” and “Do You Know”.

In her early childhood, Robyn recorded the theme song for Swedish television show, Lilla Sportspegeln, named Du Kan. It was this age she was discovered when singing her self written song about her parents’ divorce in a school workshop by Swedish pop singer, Meja, and was signed on to BMG right away. Her soulful single, ‘Show Me Love’ aired in 1997 of which claimed Robyn an International pop star by the age of 16.

RCA records released her debut single “you’ve Got That Something” in Sweden followed by Robyn is Here in 1995. In 1998, My Truth was released in 2004, unfortunately migrated away from her second record label Jive after feeling “disillusioned by their attempt to fabricate Christina template.” “I think the third record I made was a big compromise. I felt like it wasn’t fun anymore. Once you make the record and you give it to the record company, it’s not your record anymore! I was going backwards. I wasn’t doing what I wanted to.” Robyn disheartened and ready to white flag her music career, stumbled across a local brother-sister duo, Karin Dreijer Andersson and Olof Dreijer called themselves ‘The Knife’ on a CD titled ‘Deep Cuts’. They had sketched a blueprint for a kind of abstract future pop using geometric blocks of pure texture which amazed Robyn so much it brought her back to revitalize her music spirit. She harnessed her own style of piercingly honest pop collaborated with ‘The Knife’s unique Swedish energy to work on a potential single. That single was called ‘Who’s That Girl’.

Bringing this electrifying concoction to her old recording company was the last straw of ‘big label’ behoovement Robyn could possibly stand- in fact, they hated it. “They just thought it was weird,” sighs Robyn. “They didn’t understand it. I guess they didn’t consider it to be pop music, which I think is crazy. It’s TOTALLY pop music! Modern, inventive music- that’s what pop music should be.” Six months later, that modern inventive energy brought about ‘Konichiwa Records’. She had her lucky connections that got her thus far, singing her expressive heart out about all her music management dealing frustrations and proving that through and through Robyn was relentless to stick to her egalitarian partnerships in creating her unique style of electro hip-pop and truly making it her own.

International edition

"Curriculum Vitae" featuring Swingfly - 1:53
"Konichiwa Bitches" - 2:37
"Cobrastyle" (David Parker, Ewart Brown, Fabian Torsson, Joakim Åhlund, Klas Åhlund, Patrick Arve, Sylvia Robinson, Troy Rami) - 4:10
"Handle Me" - 3:47>
"Be Mine!" - 3:27
"With Every Heartbeat" with Kleerup (Robyn, Andreas Kleerup) - 4:13
"Who's That Girl" - 3:47
"Bionic Woman" - 0:16
"Crash and Burn Girl" - 3:35
"Robotboy" - 3:31
"Eclipse" - 3:29
"Should Have Known" - 3:59
"Anytime You Like" - 3:52
"Jack U Off" (Prince) - 2:15 (UK bonus track)

US edition
"Dream On" (Klas Åhlund) - 3:16
"Robotboy" (Alt. Version) - 3:31 (Borders bonus track)
"Handle Me (RedOne Remix)" - 4:09
"Bum Like You" - 3.39 (Alt. Version) (iTunes bonus track)
Special Edition ^[30]
"Dream On" (Klas Åhlund) - 3:16
Disc 2
Konichiwa Bitches (Video)
With Every Heartbeat (feat. Kleerup) (Video)
Handle Me (Video)
Be Mine! (Old Version) (Video)
Be mine! (New Version) (Video)
30 min Interview

Zingy Shadows

2008-10-30T20:31:00.005-07:00

'You Betcha' Yellow

2008-10-30T20:31:00.003-07:00

X-(Wo)Men

2008-10-30T20:31:00.001-07:00

Whimsy Whites

2008-10-30T20:30:00.003-07:00

Vintage Charm

2008-10-30T20:30:00.001-07:00

Urbania

2008-10-30T20:21:00.000-07:00

Urban mania always called for an anti-pop, pop eccentricity. That's why Spring 2009's street scene doesn't offer anything less than flashy orange, purple pink and electric blue combined with grey and classics. This accord of classic urban street chic and loud playful activewear give an eagerness of modern energy.

Tulle

2008-10-30T20:13:00.002-07:00

Stockings Galore

2008-10-30T20:13:00.001-07:00

Rags to Runway

2008-10-30T20:12:00.003-07:00

Quintessential Head Gear

2008-10-30T20:12:00.001-07:00

Pointy Shoulders

2008-10-30T20:11:00.002-07:00

Operation Sheer

2008-10-30T20:11:00.001-07:00

Neutrals

2008-10-30T11:01:00.000-07:00

Muted. Not Melancholic. Though lavish is not on the menu this
season, that doesn’t mean it serves anything less than exquisite pieces of timeless colors contrivable into any wardrobe for daily or occasional wear. Spring ‘09 flocks is an invitation to reprise old tunes in styles of soft beige, sand, vanilla and taupe, fixing our ears, eyes and minds to classics remixed. If we can say recession with a smile, Cacherel does it right. Similar to how democratic views seemed to have taken a ruling majority this election, this subset of chic and simplified designs has taken leading preference for strapped Americans.

Mad about Metallic

2008-10-30T10:52:00.000-07:00

chloe, 4xf, fashion east, Louis Vuitton

Languidly Lavished Lace

2008-10-29T11:57:00.001-07:00

"The true beauty of lace: the richness of its transparency, the fluidity of it silken lines and the delicate interplay between ornamentation and structure."
-oooms

Slow cooking isn’t just a modern form of fancy eats, it’s also style of prettily poised needlepoint. Crochet’s or appliqués, the delicate embroidery make a dramatic statement.

Kerosene

2008-10-29T11:56:00.000-07:00

3.1 Phillip Lim, Josh Goot, Peter Pilotto, Hussein Chalayan

Jewel Tones

2008-10-29T11:49:00.001-07:00

Still can't get enough of mixing brights? Good thing because colorful clothes can bring out your radulous personality!

The Satorialist

Illustrative Collaboration

2008-10-29T11:46:00.000-07:00

Hip Hippie Hooray

2008-10-29T11:40:00.000-07:00

Looking back, past the days of the Heroin-crack chic ‘ were the days of real Heroine. Women elegant and virtuous are not just for Jane Austen’s characters. When times get rough, no one says grace quite like a modern day peacemaker. Simply wearing dreamy pieces of whimsical prints and patterns such as Cacherel’s mulberry tone will leave you refurbishing the inner upsy daisy flower child.

Tsumori Chisato,

Geometric Con-figure-ations

2008-10-29T11:30:00.001-07:00

Tangrams mosaic, geometric crystals and random multiples. Structured dresses giving ode to classics like Dior's New Look or even Stegasaurus.

Fendi

Dolce & Gabanna

Christopher Kane

Fox Fur, Frolic & Frill

2008-10-29T11:28:00.001-07:00

Embroidery & the Id

2008-10-29T10:38:00.001-07:00

Deja Vu Daywear

2008-10-29T09:19:00.000-07:00

In a familiar yet dreamlike state, these pieces leave you unable to stop thinking about the world that floats between what was and what will be. Meanwhile, realists still have fun interlacing the two into a modern ethereal elegance using silk satin pajamas and floral appliques.

Dolce & Gabbana

Louis Vuitton

Charles Anastase

Crimped Out

2008-10-29T08:14:00.000-07:00

Sonia Rykiel

all dolled-up (John Galliano)

Street fashioned twins in Paris (The Satorialist)

Baroque

2008-10-29T07:53:00.000-07:00

A modern twist of 14th Century
extreme beauty.

Gareth Pugh

Fendi

Gareth Pugh

Audacious Accessories

2008-10-29T05:56:00.000-07:00

This icing comes in forms of one of a kind artisan metal, satchel leather totes and geometric toned platforms.

Vera Wang

Louis Vuitton

Miu Miu, Jak & Jil